Sustainability is a minefield for shoppers. Is organic cotton actually better for the planet? Animal leather or vegan leather? What about recycled polyester? That’s not even to mention the pay and working conditions of those who are making our clothes across the supply chain.
It’s why Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey is launching The FairGround, an online marketplace for brands adopting more responsible practices. “The customer is confused; there’s so much noise,” the stylist and former Vogue editor explains of the idea behind the site. “Fundamentally, we’re working with brands that are fair from the ground up.”
Those spotlighted include the likes of ELV Denim, sustainable knitwear labels Herd and Navygrey, and eco-minded underwear brand, Stripe & Stare, while beauty brand Votary is also in the edit. “I wouldn’t say there’s any brand that’s perfect, but these are purpose-led brands,” Chadwyck-Healey explains. Each were assessed by third-party consultancy B.Able across three pillars – people, planet and responsible production – in order to make it onto the site, with The FairGround looking to continue updating the criteria moving forward, to ensure that brands are still making progress.
Interestingly, three companies haven’t made it on site as a result of the process, although Chadwyck-Healey says she’s actually been surprised by the work happening behind the scenes. “We’ve seen a lot more than brands even declare on their site,” the founder continues, pointing to the trend of greenhushing, whereby companies decide not to talk about their sustainability efforts for fear of being called out. “We can perhaps talk about their brands in ways that they don’t necessarily feel comfortable.”
Despite the challenges of the retail landscape (as evidenced by the closure of Matches earlier this year), Chadwyck-Healey is confident that there’s space for a more curated, and purpose-driven, offering. “To me, a curation is not 2,000 products,” she says, noting that The FairGround – unlike other multi-brand retailers like Net-a-Porter and MyTheresa – will not hold inventory, given its marketplace model. “It’s: these are the ones [to buy] if you’re short of time, trust us.”