Peptides. They’re one of the skincare industry’s favourite ingredients right now, as evidenced by an array of new formulas that harness their multi-pronged effects for the skin. “Peptides are the silent powerhouse of skincare,” says Mark Curry, co-founder of The Inkey List. “They work beneath the skin’s surface to strengthen, repair and rejuvenate your skin. When used correctly, they can be transformative.”
As beauty fans, our collective interest in this firming and/or “messenger” ingredient – because there are different kinds – has been piqued, too. Google searches for peptides have risen by 300 per cent over the last few months, and there has been a 40 per cent increase in searches for peptide serums. They’re officially the ingredient of the moment, but what exactly are they? And how do they work? Vogue spoke to the experts to find out.
What are peptides? And what do they do for the skin?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which means they’re essentially the building blocks of proteins, like collagen and elastin,” explains Curry. “These proteins keep your skin firm, smooth and resilient.” There are different kinds of peptides and they do different things for the skin.
Here’s a quick rundown:
Signal peptides: These tell skincare cells to do something different. For example, matrixyl 3000 stimulates collagen and elastin production, to reduce fine lines and improve skin elasticity.
Carrier peptides: Act as delivery vehicles. For example, copper tripeptide delivers essential trace elements, like copper, to the skin to promote healing and repair.
Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides: Marketers love to advertise their “Botox in a bottle” effects. These peptides interact with the nervous system, telling facial muscles to relax to soften the appearance of wrinkles. Argireline is a good example.
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides: They slow down cellular processes – for example, the breakdown of collagen and elastin – helping to maintain firmness and elasticity over time.
As is becoming clear, the benefits of peptides vary depending on what type they are, and how they’re used within each formula. But as Jason Thompson, head of medical for Skin + Me, explains, products containing peptides will clearly indicate what skin concerns they’ve been created to treat treat on the label. For his part, Thompson recommends heptapeptide-6 to reduce redness, and acetyl hexpapetide-1 to brighten and boost glow.
Do peptides work for every skin type?
In short, yes, they’re suitable for every skin type, whether your skin is dry, oily, sensitive or combination. They are gentle and don’t often cause irritation, but nonetheless Thompson notes it’s always best to approach new ingredients with caution if your skin is especially sensitive. “Test a few drops on a small patch of skin, then leave for a few hours – if your skin doesn’t react, then go ahead and use it on your face,” he says.
How should you incorporate peptides into your skincare routine?
Peptides can work at any point in your routine, morning or evening, but both experts advise layering them onto clean, hydrated skin for optimal absorption. Follow with a heavier moisturiser or face oil afterwards. “I always recommend pairing peptides with hydrating ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, as they work synergistically to support moisture retention and barrier repair,” says Curry. While you can get peptide-infused cleansers, for best results, using a good peptide serum or cream will give you the best bang for your buck as the ingredient will have more opportunity to absorb into the skin.
His number one rule? “Consistency is key,” he says. “Peptides work over time, so using them regularly is essential. They’re not a quick fix, but an investment in long-term skin health.”
